Salzburg: The Hills Are Alive With The Sound Of Delicious Food and Beer

Even after spending two full days in Salzburg I'm still not sure if it was real.

A serene little city nestled into the foothills of the Austrian Alps, church towers dot the horizon and fill the streets with their singing through the day. Some locals have started wearing Dirndls and Lederhosen again to get back to their native roots, and it's not uncommon to see a group of them sitting in a cafe in brightly colored outfits singing songs in German together. The whole time we were there, Taylor and I kept exclaiming, "how is this real!"

We arrived and walked to our hostel without a hitch. In the common space we saw a sign saying they play "The Sound of Music" every night at 8. The movie was filmed here and the Sound of Music tour is apparently super great, even people who hate the movie say the tour is worth it. Do be warned, they make you sing on the bus.

The map provided at the hostel marked out three self-directed walking tours that would take us past most of the major Salzburg points of interest. After lunch, Taylor and I set off on the longest flat one, through the city, over the river and into the old city near the Dom.

First we entered the Mirabell garden, where part of "Doe a Deer" was filmed. And I kid you not it may be the most perfect garden I have ever had the privilege of entering. Human scale, bursting with flowers, still symmetrical and very orderly and imperial but at a size that makes sense for people.

Unicorn statues greeted us at the main entrance down a path flanked by flowers in swirling patterns then over to another part of the garden with walkways all leading to a central fountain with nymph statues and a wall dripping in purple wisteria blossoms. We sat on a bench for awhile taking in the views, unable to believe that it really exists. This is the garden illustrated in fairy tale books, sitting in it was surreal and wonderful.

The end of the Mirabell garden led us to a pedestrian bridge across the river to the older part of the city, then through a close to the famous and very expensive shopping street. Every store has an ornate sign stretching out beyond the door. Soon we wandered into Domplatz and Kapitalplatz at the base of the mountain where the fortress balances on top. A violinist played in the stoa between the two plazas and serenaded us and other visitors while we rested.

Salzburg is surrounded by ridges and small mountains I guess, they're not hills but not quite towering peaks. This gives them the amiable quality of providing excellent views with just a little bit of cardiovascular work. That evening I hiked up the south ridge at the west end and followed the cliff all the way along back above the old city, on the same level as the fortress one mountain over. Watching the sunset, turning from yellow, gold then orange, bathing the old city in color was one of the highlights of the trip so far. At one outlook I could see beyond the fortress mountain out to the alps beyond, still dusted with snow.

I worked my way down to a ridge right at the level of the rooftops and from that position it was just me and the bell towers hanging out in the evening air together. As I walked home they all started to strike ten, and I listened to their clear tones all the way back to the hostel.

-------------------------

The next morning I made the trek up to the fortress, it's a short but impossibly steep ascent. Parts of it have ladder like rungs bolted to the ground to make the trek safer. Eight Euros bought me entrance to the old fortress, but more importantly the view off the side opposite Salzburg. I could see the start of the Alps in all their glory on a clear sunny morning. I sat at a very well placed cafe and enjoyed a coffee and the view for a good long while.

At noon I met Taylor and some of her friends from the states in the Mirabell garden. One of them, named Andreas is from the Salzburg area and he acted as host and tour guide through the city. First to a food stand in the old city where they sell the world's greatest hotdog. Onions, mustard, curry powder and real bratwurst on a lightly toasted bun. It rocked my world. Apparently the lady running the stand will occasionally yell at patrons who ask for ketchup on their sausage. Sacrelige.

After the greatest hotdog ever they were planning on heading up to the fortress. I almost didn't go since I'd already made that trek, but they said they would just hike to the beer garden about halfway up and stop for lunch. On the way through the street Andreas recognize a man walking the opposite way, stopped him and chatted for a moment. And a minute later he lead us back the way he came towards the mountain.

Turns out this man went to school with Andreas 12 years ago and the two haven't seen each other since, and now he manages the brewery we were headed to. He gave us a little tour of the building hanging onto the the cliff below the fortress including a huge traditional event hall and a balcony overlooking the city. Then he sat down with us and caught up while we enjoyed beer, wine, sun and snacks for a few hours. Again, Salzburg felt unreal.

We ate and drank our way though Salzburg and the day, the brewery, a dessert shop where there is a designated cake lady who brings fat slices of decorated cakes to the table on a large platter. Then to a monastery where the locals go to have dinner and drink in the beer garden. You pay for your beer based on size, get a ticket and pick up the correct mug off the shelf. Rinse it out at the waiting taps then hand it and the ticket to the man managing the beer dispersal. He fills your cup from a tap in a large wooden barrel and off you go. Taylor and I somehow shared one of the smallest size they had; it was delicious, but we were both pretty done with drinking by then.

Afterwards we hiked the ridge, back down into the city and back to the hostel for what? Yes to watch "The Sound of Music". It was really cool to see so many of the places we had wandered for the last few days appear before us being danced upon by Julie Andrews and 7 kids.

------------

The next morning we had breakfast together and hurried to the station to catch our separate trains. Taylor heading East and me headed South for a few days. I'm so lucky to have found such a great travel companion and friend. I really hope we meet up again soon.

So I am headed off to the south. Into a small mountain town to relax, take in the mountain air and views. Off to Filzmoos!